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Ise-Shima NP, Mie
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Edo-era pilgrims who could not travel sometimes sent a dog in their place. A note and travel money went around its neck; strangers fed and guided it, and helping an “Okage dog” was considered virtuous.
The name “Okage” recalls the great pilgrimages to Ise. In 1830, about 5 million people—roughly 1 in 6 of Japan’s population—visited over 6 months; the recorded peak was 148,000 in a single day.
At the Akafuku shop in Okage Yokocho, the sweet’s 3 ridges of bean paste represent the Isuzu River’s current; the white mochi underneath stands for pale stones on the riverbed.
At Fukusuke in Okage Yokocho, Ise udon is about 3 times as thick as ordinary udon, yet unusually soft. It’s served with just a little of its near-black, tamari-based sauce.
Shima-style tekone sushi served here is traditionally traced to fishermen’s quick boat meals: they marinated freshly caught bonito in soy sauce, then mixed it by hand with vinegar rice.
Around 1985, Oharai-machi’s annual foot traffic had fallen to about 200,000. Okage Yokocho opened in 1993 to help revive the gate town; the following year, it drew over 2 million visitors.
The nostalgic streetscape is a mix: some buildings were reconstructed in traditional styles, while others were physically relocated from elsewhere in Mie, including communities along Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes.
A well inside Okage Yokocho draws underground water from the Isuzu River. Restaurants use it for tea, and it is also used to make the local Yokochō Cider.
In Ise, shimenawa hang on homes year-round, not just through New Year. Their “Somin Shorai’s descendants” plaques recall a legend in which Susanoo rewarded a generous host with protection from epidemics.
September 29 is read as “kuru fuku,” or “come, good fortune.” Okage Yokocho’s first lucky-cat festival was held in Ise in 1995, and today cats of many designs gather from across Japan.
Okage Yokocho’s Momenya Ai sells Matsusaka cotton, prized for its indigo stripes. Ise merchants carried the sturdy, fresh-patterned cloth to Edo, where it became popular.
Ise’s first-of-the-month visits are a ritual of thanks for the month just passed. Okage Yokocho welcomes early worshippers with a morning market and seasonal breakfast dishes, including rice porridge.
Just outside Okage Yokocho, Akafuku began selling its monthly Tsuitachi Mochi in 1978 to welcome first-of-the-month worshippers. The seasonal flavor changes each month.
