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Sanriku Fukkō NP, Iwate
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“Senjojiki” means “1,000 tatami mats,” and the scale is no exaggeration: its wave-cut shelf runs over 600m and reaches 100m wide. The granite formed from magma about 120 million years ago.
The island just offshore, Sanukujima, is a protected seabird nursery. Streaked shearwaters dig horizontal burrows up to 5m long, fish offshore by day, then return to their nests around dusk.
At nearby Hakozaki-Shirahama, the local inn’s uni-shabu puts Kamaishi sea urchin in the broth, letting diners enjoy the summer delicacy beyond its short season.
Sanukujima’s name comes from local fishing lore: even when catches were poor, fishers said a trip to its waters brought in at least three kanmon—a measure of money’s worth—in fish.
On calm days, broad tide pools can turn into giant mirrors, reflecting Senjojiki’s signature boulder. A national-park ranger photographed the effect during a spring patrol.
At the peninsula’s tip, red torii mark Ohakozaki Shrine, which is revered by local fishers. Here, the dramatic coastline is also part of a living place of prayer.
The route to the cape passes fields where orange sukashiyuri lilies bloom in summer and hamagiku, or Nippon daisies, flower in fall.
In Hakozaki-Shirahama, local grandmothers share kama-dango, wheat dumplings with sweet-salty walnut filling, and susuri-dango, dumplings served in azuki-bean soup.
After the 2011 tsunami, 167 supporters helped create nearby Ohakozaki no Yado as a new gathering place for Hakozaki-Shirahama. The project drew on memories of the local nursery school, where generations of children had grown up.