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Joshin’etsukogen NP, Nagano
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Olivier Messiaen visited this forest in 1962 and notated songs from 26 bird species—without using the recorder his guide had brought. They became “The Birds of Karuizawa,” movement 6 of Sept Haïkaï.
Bird conservationist Godo Nakanishi is credited with coining yachō (野鳥, “wild bird”) and championing birds in their habitat. His walks here with innkeeper Kasuke Hoshino helped lead to the forest’s national designation in 1974.
In this 100-hectare forest, around 80 bird species and 40 mammal species have been recorded. It is also one of Japan’s 4 national wild-bird forests, sharing its woods with flying squirrels and black bears.
Look beneath pines for “forest ebifurai”: pinecones stripped into shrimp-like shapes by giant flying squirrels and Japanese squirrels. Both species leave these little snack-shaped calling cards in the forest.
The copper pheasant is a Japan-endemic resident, and males can reach 125 cm in total length. The forest’s official trail map even marks a spot where this spectacular bird is often seen.
The Japanese dormouse living here is endemic to Japan and only about 12 cm long, tail included. It hibernates through the harsh winter—an astonishingly small resident of the forest.
The forest’s giant flying squirrels don’t stop at the sanctuary boundary: their glide route from the national forest into neighboring Hoshinoya grounds is protected, according to the resort.
Black bears live in this forest, and the nearby town’s coexistence story includes an unusual helper: in 2004, Picchio brought Japan’s first trained bear dog to help guide bears back toward woodland.
Since 1991, local volunteers have raised seedlings from forest acorns and replanted them to help turn planted larch stands toward natural woodland. They also mow a meadow to keep habitat diverse.
Two old charcoal-kiln ruins remain along the trail, a reminder that this was working woodland before sanctuary protection. Oak was favored for high-quality charcoal, once a common household fuel in Japan.
Pale pumice is still visible in a sloping trail-side layer: these stones came from an eruption of nearby Mt. Asama. The volcano’s past activity helped shape the ground beneath the forest.
At Misosazai Rest House, listen for a tiny wren with a surprisingly powerful spring song. The lookout sits by the small streams where these birds live, so the singer may be heard before it is seen.
One creekside stretch doubles as a bird bath: it is shallow and slow-moving, with overhanging branches that help hide bathing birds from predators. A quiet pause may reveal birds washing in the stream.
